PIC DE BURE - PILLER DESMAISON - DÉVOLUY
Pilier Desmaison, a climbing "must do"
In the footsteps of the legend Desmaison!
twenty lengths, 600 m of sustained climbing and adventure terrain, a crazy gas, rock rather good when we stay well in the itinerary (which requires research) and the arrival on the lunar plateau
we must be effective not to end up at the frontal ...
D1- Bivouac to the car at the end of the track
D2- Start at the front to be at the attack of the track with the first rays of sun. It is necessary to cross a length of artif very physical, then the lengths are linked in the 5+/6A (1x 6b)
Related courses
Pic Sans Nom 3913m - kelle route
Kelle route - South face and west ridge - 650m of difficulty for 1400m of D+
one of the summits of the Ailefroide - Pic sans nom - Pelvoux line, straddling the Selé valley and the Glacier Noir.
This route, opened in 1967, is a great line, in a wild, steep and sustained face. A jewel of the Écrins massif !
After 2 short hours of approach from the Sélé refuge, it takes us about 8 hours of ascent by a complex and clever path of pillars, slabs and ledges to reach the summit.
As often in Écrins, the descent is not to be neglected, another 4 hours of tricky roaming to reach the Pelvoux refuge
Pic du Coup de Sabre 3699m - Le Grand Sabre et le Petit Couillon
Pic du Coup de Sabre 3699m - Le Grand Sabre et le Petit Couillon
TD 6B+>5C / 350m / South-East / 1190m of D+ from the Sélé refuge
A recent route, almost modern, equipped, in a very "Oisans sauvage" environment !
With sculpted granite and slabs of the first pitches, follows a very aerial climb on red gneiss
Abseils in the route
Les Rouies 3589m - face Sud
Climbing in this sector of the Ecrins range is to love the real wild mountain, alone, wide open spaces, authenticity. From Pigeonnier hut spur SE or Rebuffat route to Les Rouies 3589m is an old classic. The difficulties do not exceed 4C in climbing, but the route takes place on 800m of elevation. Descent by the normal route.
Other routes: a tone above, the ramp D + / 5B, ++ Mille Blues TD+/6B, +++ La Mafia ED/6C
